Mermaid dress

Also called: Fishtail

Highlights and balances

Highlights

Follows the curves from bust to knee
Creates a dramatic flare at the hem

Balances

Adds volume at the hem, which balances the shoulders

Wear it when

Events it suits

Pairs with

Necklines: Sweetheart, Strapless, Plunging, Illusion neckline
Lengths: Floor length
Trains: Court train
Fabrics: Satin, Lace

Avoid if

You want to dance freely or take long strides
You will sit for much of the event
Stairs or uneven ground are part of the day

The flare starts at or just below the knee; a trumpet flares higher, from mid-thigh, and is easier to walk in.

A mermaid dress is a long gown that keeps a close line down past the hips and thighs and only opens out once it reaches the knee. That late, sudden flare is what gives it the nickname fishtail. You will meet the term most often in bridal and evening gown listings, where it appears among the main dress silhouettes.

How to spot a mermaid dress

On a hanger, look for a narrow column that runs well below the hips before the skirt changes shape. The flare starts at the knee or a little under it, and it spreads wide and fast. In a listing, the word “fishtail” and a floor-length hem are both good clues. Two shapes get mixed up with it:

Trumpet: a trumpet dress opens higher, from mid-thigh, so the skirt releases sooner and gives you longer strides.
Fit-and-flare: a fit-and-flare dress releases at the waist into a swingy skirt that usually stops at knee or midi length.

Wearing a mermaid dress well

The close fit carries the eye from the bodice to the hem, so the neckline and the flare do most of the talking. A sweetheart neckline or a strapless bodice works because the wide hem balances bare shoulders. A plunging or illusion neckline adds drama, and the illusion version gives you coverage and support as well.

Fabric matters most through the fitted section. Satin shows the line with a smooth sheen, while lace adds texture where the dress is closest to the body. Have the hem set in the exact shoes you will wear, since a floor-length gown should skim the floor.

For a black tie wedding, try a satin mermaid gown with a sweetheart bodice, a short court train and a light wrap for the walk between ceremony and reception. Before you commit, test it on stairs and in a chair, because the snug knee limits your stride and long stretches of sitting.

FAQ

Is a mermaid dress formal?

Yes. It suits black tie, black tie optional and formal attire. The floor-length cut and dramatic hem read as evening wear, so keep it for nighttime events.

Can I wear a mermaid dress to prom?

You can, because prom calls for formal attire. Prom also means hours of dancing, so walk, sit and turn in the dress before you buy. If you are torn, the Silhouette Finder can suggest shapes that move more freely.

Is a “modified mermaid” the same thing?

Not quite. Listings often use “modified mermaid” for a trumpet dress, which flares from mid-thigh. “Fishtail” is the term that means the same as mermaid.