Types of dresses: every dress name explained

Most types of dresses are named in two ways. The first is silhouette, meaning the overall shape from shoulder to hem. The second is length, meaning where the hem falls. Our glossary lists fifteen dress silhouettes and eight lengths. Occasion names like “prom dress” or “cocktail dress” are a third kind of label: they describe the event, not the shape, so one silhouette can appear under several dress names.

Dresses by silhouette

The silhouette is the most useful of the dress styles to learn, because it tells you how the dress sits on the body and how it moves.

• A-line: The bodice is fitted, and the skirt widens slowly from the waist down in the outline of a capital A. It adapts to nearly any length and level of formality, so it is a sensible first shape to try.
• Ball gown: A fitted top sits over a very full, floor-length skirt that starts at the natural waist and is held out by tulle or a petticoat. This is the most formal shape. The skirt needs room, so think about the venue, the chairs and how you will move.
• Mermaid: It fits close through the bodice, hips and thighs, then breaks into a sharp fishtail flare at or just under the knee. Walking takes more care than in a trumpet.
• Trumpet: The line through the hips is just as fitted as a mermaid, but the flare opens higher, at mid-thigh. That higher flare leaves more room to walk and dance.
• Sheath: A narrow, straight line follows the body from shoulder to hem, with no waist seam and no flare. Crepe keeps it clean and modern, while lace or satin makes it formal. At longer lengths, check for a slit or a walking pleat.
• Column: A slim vertical line runs from the shoulders to the floor and skims the body instead of clinging. Think of it as a looser, usually full-length sheath, with a side slit so you can walk.
• Empire: The waistline sits high, just under the bust, and the skirt falls freely from there. Light, flowing fabrics suit it, and it stays comfortable through a long, warm day.
• Fit-and-flare: It fits to the waist, then opens into a full, swinging skirt that usually stops at the knee or at midi length. Cut at cocktail length it feels retro and festive. In velvet or brocade it works for winter parties.
• Bodycon: It is cut tight to the body in stretch fabric from neckline to hem. Because it depends on knits such as jersey or ponte, getting the size right matters more than it does in a woven dress.
• Two-piece: A matching top and skirt are meant to be worn as a set, often with a little skin showing at the waist. You can buy each piece in its own size and wear the skirt again with something else.
• Peplum: A short flared panel or ruffle is sewn at the waist and sits over the hips, above a fitted or straight skirt. Stiffer cloth keeps the peplum crisp. Softer cloth lets it fall like a ruffle.
• Slip: It has narrow straps and is cut on the bias in a liquid fabric that glides over you. Satin cut this way creases at the slightest fold, so steam it the day you wear it and bring a wrap.
• Shift: It hangs straight from the shoulders with little shaping at the waist and ends at or above the knee. Add a belt when you want a defined waist, or leave it off for an easy all-day dress.
• Wrap: One front panel crosses the other and ties at the waist, which creates a V-neck. Use the tie to set the fit, and add a snap or safety pin to hold the neckline where you like it.
• Drop waist: The waistline sits low, near the hips, and the skirt begins there. This is the 1920s shape, so a beaded version is the obvious pick for a 1920s-themed party.

Dresses by length

Hem names run from shortest to longest, with one shape that mixes two lengths:

1. Mini: ends at mid-thigh or higher.
2. Above the knee: sits a little above the kneecap, between a mini and a knee-length hem.
3. Knee length: stops at the knee or slightly below it.
4. Midi: falls anywhere from the knee to mid-calf.
5. Tea length: reaches from mid-calf to just above the ankle, usually over a full skirt.
6. High-low: is shorter in front, often at or above the knee, and longer behind, often to the calf or the floor.
7. Ankle length: stops at or just above the ankle, so it is longer than a midi but still clear of the ground.
8. Floor length: touches or just skims the floor in the shoes you plan to wear, so bring those shoes to any fitting.

Dresses by occasion

Occasion labels group dresses by event, and each one can use many of the silhouettes above. Our prom dress guide, cocktail dress guide and evening dress guide each cover styles, colors, fit and timing for that event.

The bridesmaid dress guide does the same for wedding parties. Our wedding dress styles page explains how silhouettes like the ball gown, mermaid and A-line apply to bridal gowns. When you read any of these guides, look for the silhouette and length names from this page. They tell you more about the actual dress than the occasion label does.

How to use these names when you shop

A precise search combines four words: silhouette, length, neckline and fabric. Compare “midi A-line V-neck satin dress” with “nice party dress”. The first describes one dress you can picture. The second could return almost anything.

Build your search in this order:

1. Silhouette: decide what you want the dress to do. A wrap or fit-and-flare defines the waist, a column or shift falls straight, and a mermaid shows the line through the hips.
2. Length: match the hem to the event and to how much you will walk, sit or dance.
3. Neckline: the glossary has 18 neckline terms, from a V-neck to a Queen Anne neckline.
4. Fabric: the 20 fabric terms explain why the same sheath reads casual in crepe and formal in lace.

If you are not sure where to start, the Silhouette Finder asks six questions about the event and what you want to highlight, then suggests three silhouettes to try.

FAQ

What is the difference between a sheath, a shift and a column?

All three are straight shapes, but they relate to the body differently. A sheath follows your shape closely. A shift drops loosely from the shoulders and stays short. A column skims rather than hugs and usually reaches the floor.

Is tea length the same as midi?

No, they overlap only at mid-calf. A midi can start as high as the knee, while a tea-length hem starts at mid-calf and can come down to just above the ankle. Tea length also usually comes with a fuller skirt.

Can one dress fit more than one type?

Yes. A dress almost always has one silhouette and one length, and it may also carry an occasion label, so “floor-length sheath evening dress” is one garment described three ways. A two-piece can also borrow another shape, such as a fitted top over an A-line skirt.

Where do sleeves and trains come in?

They are separate details you add to the silhouette, not types of dresses on their own. The glossary lists 11 sleeve terms and 7 train terms. A ball gown or mermaid with a train is still a ball gown or mermaid.