Jacquard fabric

Also called: Damask (a flat jacquard), Cloqué (a puckered jacquard)

Weight: Medium
Drape: Crisp
Stretch: None
Sheen: Soft
Breathability: Medium
Creasing: Low
Seasons: Fall, Winter, Spring
Care: Dry clean most jacquards; check the label.
Typical use: Cocktail dresses, structured skirts and tailored dresses

Highlights and balances

Highlights

Adds woven pattern and texture
Gives structure in heavier weights

Wear it when

Events it suits

Pairs with

Silhouettes: Fit-and-flare, Sheath, Peplum
Necklines: Square
Lengths: Knee length, Midi

Avoid if

You want a plain, minimal surface

Brocade is a type of jacquard with a raised pattern; jacquards range far wider in weight.

Jacquard is cloth made on a jacquard loom, where the threads themselves form the pattern instead of ink. The family runs from flat, light damasks to puckered cloqués and heavy textured cloths. You meet jacquard fabric most in cocktail dresses, structured skirts and tailored dresses, and it also appears in guides to wedding dress fabrics.

How to spot jacquard

On jacquard, the pattern sits in the surface of the cloth. Because it is woven rather than printed, the motif often catches the light differently from the background. Turn a fold over and you can usually see the design on the back too, which a print cannot do. A damask reads flat and smooth, while a cloqué looks gently bubbled. In the hand it feels crisp, gives no stretch and resists creasing, with a soft sheen rather than a shine.

Brocade is the term people confuse it with most. Brocade is one kind of jacquard: heavy, with a raised pattern that often uses metallic or contrasting threads. Jacquard as a whole covers a far wider range of weights.

Wearing jacquard well

A crisp, medium-weight cloth holds its own shape, so it suits cuts with clear lines. A sheath lets an all-over pattern run unbroken, and a fit-and-flare skirt keeps its flare. A peplum stays standing at the waist, and a square neckline repeats the structure. Start at knee or midi length, where the pattern reads clearly without the bulk of a full gown.

For a cocktail party, try a knee-length jacquard sheath with a square neckline, plain pumps and a small clutch. The weave already supplies the detail, so keep the jewelry simple.

Jacquard breathes moderately, which suits fall, winter and spring better than high summer. Dry clean most jacquards, and read the label before you try anything at home. Since the fabric has no stretch, check the fit at the shoulders and waist before you buy.

FAQ

Is jacquard formal?

It can be. Jacquard suits formal, cocktail, business formal and festive attire, and the richer the weave, the dressier the dress reads.

Can I wear jacquard to a summer event?

Choose a lighter weave if you do. A heavy jacquard with no stretch and medium breathability can feel warm on a hot day, so cooler evenings suit it best.

What is the difference between jacquard and damask?

Damask is a flat-patterned type of jacquard. Every damask is a jacquard, but jacquard also includes cloqués, brocades and heavy textured cloths. The fabrics glossary lets you compare them side by side.